After five years of nights and weekends, I’m finally done rebuilding my 1997 CR250, and just in time for quarantine season! All that’s left to do is give it a final detail and preseason prep, and I’m ready to… Sit and… look at it.
For pre-season detail, I like to strip the plastics, gas tank, and sub-frame so I can get to all the hard-to-reach areas. I’ll show you my routine, and since I have plenty of time on my hands, I’m going to try out some products I’ve never used.
These plastics are halfway to fucked, but they’re still in one piece, so I’m going to try and give at least one more season before I spend $180 on a new set.
This is, after all, my beater bike.
The easy way to remove the old numbers is with heat. You can use a torch, heat gun, or just lay your plastics in the sun for a while. Whatever method you choose, you need to be careful not to get the plastics too hot because they will warp and become brittle.
You want to apply just enough heat to get under the numbers with a razor; after that, all you need to do is pull. Follow up with some toluene or Xylene to remove any adhesive residue.
I like to pre-soak my plastics with soapy water before I hit them with the pressure washer. Or that’s how I used to do it because I was recently introduced to S100, and pre-soaking is now a waste of time.
Remove The Old Numbers With Heat And A Flat Razor
Frame Prep
Whether or not you use a pressure washer to clean your frame, you need to protect the exposed air, fuel, and electrical components.
Plug your main fuel line with a CLEAN bolt and seal it with electrical tape.
If you have a power jet solenoid, wrap the harness with a plastic sack and electrical tape.
Take the clamp from your airbox and clamp a plastic sack over the carburetor intake, and secure it with electrical tape.
Cover your CDI with a plastic sack and shove it down between the frame rails.
Find your engine stop switch connections, and wrap them in electrical tape too.
These electrical components are designed to be waterproof, but taking 5 minutes to be sure, could save you a considerable headache.
Gas Tank Cleaning
Drain your gas tank and remove the petcock.
Clean the petcock body, fuel filter, and O-ring with a soft bristle brush and carb cleaner.
This tank is plastic, so I can just clean it out with water.
My silencer packing was still in good shape, so I’m going to keep using it.
However, the silencer body has seen better days, so I’m going to try out some high heat paint and try to bring it back to life.
The paint I’m going to try out is PJ1 Fast Black. Fast Black is a high gloss black coating that can withstand up to 500 degrees.
I started with a thorough cleaning with parts cleaner, followed by a once over with 120 grit sandpaper; then I followed that with a wipe down of Xylene.
I applied three coats of paint with 30 minutes between the first and second coat, and about 4 hours between the second and third coats, to ensure the first two coats… no, I got distracted.
I like the way it looks on my silencer, so I might paint the engine next winter. Or next week, when I get bored, the backyard gets really small, really fast.
You should clean your air filter after every ride, so this should not be anything new to you. I do, however, want to show you my go-to filter cleaner and oil combination, which is PJ1.
I like to soak my filter with the PJ1 cleaner, then let it hang over a bucket for about 10 minutes before I rinse it and hang it out to dry.
This filter has about 3 hours on it in my backyard, and it was LOADED with dust, meaning the PJ1 filter oil did its job.
Besides the performance, PJ1 is my go-to cleaner and oil combination for two reasons:
One, they are specifically made to work together. The cleaner completely breaks down the oil inside the filter, taking the garbage with it.
And two, it doesn’t take much, so each can will typically last me a whole season.
PJ1 Filter Cleaner And Filer OilLook What Came Out Of My Filter
Pre-Wash Notes
You do not need a power washer to wash your bike, but it does make things easier. That being said, if you DO use a power washer, you need to be careful where you point that thing because you can do some severe damage.
The areas you need to avoid are:
The radiator
Anything electrical
Your carburetor intake
External seals like the output shaft and kickstarter
And don’t spend too much time in direct contact with gaskets.
Even a basic electric pressure washer like mine can shred a seal and blow through a gasket, so be careful! Don’t start your season with a vacuum leak!
No matter how dirty my bike is, I always start with basic power washer detergent from a foamer, then wash that off with a wide nozzle.
Earlier I mentioned pre-soaking my plastics is pointless now, thanks to S100 total cycle cleaner. I’ve never used S100, as my routine of pre-soak and pressure has always done the job.
I was skeptical at first, because I’ve spent so much time using chemicals from a spray can, that anything in a spray bottle wouldn’t be strong enough.
Well, I was very wrong.
One application of S100 removed dirt and grease from the frame and plastics that I had pretty much given up trying to clean without a sandblaster. So that’s two new products added to my shelf.
S100 Total Cycle CleanerS100 Power Wash Results
Wheels
Go-To Product – Stiff Brush & Elbow Grease
A power washer makes washing your bike easy, but there’s no substitute for a stiff brush and elbow grease.
I like to go around my rim several times with a stiff brush and soapy water to clean off any dirt or corrosion that washing missed. This gives me a chance to examine my rims closely. If I find any excessive corrosion or damage, I can fix it now, instead of peak riding time.
What to use on your chain is always a topic of debate. I’m not going to tell you one coating is better than another because it all depends on your riding conditions and personal experience.
However, there is one definite truth about chain maintenance: Clean the damn thing after every ride!
For the riding conditions, I’m expecting, which is none, I’m going to use Maxima Chain Wax. I like to use wax when I’m storing bikes because it’s great at repelling moisture. The catch with wax, though, is the chain needs to be warm for optimal adhesion.
If for whatever reason, you can’t ride, a torch or heat gun will do the trick. The chain does not need to be hot, just warm to the touch, so keep the heat even and the chain moving. Apply your coating and wipe off any overspray.
Lubricating your cables can get messy, so keep your towels handy. I am using PJ1 cable lube, but any liquid lubricant will work.
PJ1 Cable Lube
White lithium grease would be excellent, but most aerosol lithium is designed to foam up, and it won’t make it to the other end of the tube very easily.
PB Blaster just came out with a silicone lube that looks like it would work, but it doesn’t have the cleaning agents that PJ1 has.
PB Blaster Silicone Lubricant
You will need to disconnect your throttle and clutch cable on both ends, but you do not need to remove them completely.
Remove the throttle cable housing cover, followed by the cam wheel.
Unhook the cable and unscrew it from the housing.
If you don’t have a lubrication clamp, you can spray from here.
If you do have a clamp, pull the cable mount away from the cable jacket.
This cable lubrication clamp only costs $10 and saves a lot of time and mess.
Just seat the cable end in the rubber, and clamp it down.
Stick the spray straw in the grommet hole and start spraying in bursts.
Some lube will spray out, so wrap your cable end in a shop towel.
Watch the other end of the cable, you will see the old dirt getting pushed out, and when you start to see clear lube, you’re good to go.
Reassemble your throttle cable housing with fresh lubrication.
Motion Pro Cable Lubrication Clamp
I avoid using regular grease in the throttle cable housing, simply because I don’t want to deal with it the next time I take it apart.
I’ve been using white lithium grease for a long time, but this time I want to try that PB Blaster Silicone spray I mentioned earlier. This silicon spray is probably too thin for this application, but I’ll give it a try anyway since I have nothing better to do.
Before I put everything back together, I coat the plastics and parts of the frame in Maxima SC1. Maxima SC1 is a coating that you can either buff to get a nice sheen or leave wet to minimize dirt and mud build-up.
Maxima SC1
By applying SC1 to parts before assembly, you can get to the hard-to-reach places, making future cleaning much easier. Key spots on the frame would be the hubs, inside the air box, the radiator, the drive gear, and any little spot mud likes to build up.
I apply SC1 to both sides of the plastics, then let them dry for a while. After I assemble everything, I’ll go over the outsides of the plastics with a microfiber cloth to get as much shine out of the old plastics as I can. Handling the wet plastics can get messy, so keep your towels handy.
Thank You!
This is most likely the last article for my CR250, and I want to thank you all for reading and commenting with questions. If you ever need help with your CR250, I’m always available on Facebook messenger.
I’m very excited to move on to my next project bike. It needs a lot of work, it’s blue, and it rhymes with Shmamaha.
How To Service The Water Pump On Your 1997-2001 Honda CR250
Your water pump is located at the front of your crankcase on the right side. Right next to the oil level plug is a tiny opening.
The other side of this opening sits between the impeller shaft oil and coolant seals. If you can see oil, coolant, or both coming out of that opening, your water pump is no longer sealed and needs to be repaired.
You can change the gasket on your water pump without removing the right crankcase cover. But if you need to change the seals, bearing, or impeller, your right crankcase cover must be removed.
How To Service The Water Pump On Your 1997-2001 Honda CR250
What Are The Signs Of A Bad Water Pump?
Your water pump is located at the front of your crankcase on the right side. Right next to the oil level plug is a tiny opening.
The other side of this opening sits between the impeller shaft oil and coolant seals. If you can see oil, coolant, or both coming out of that opening, your water pump is no longer sealed and needs to be repaired.
You can change the gasket on your water pump without removing the right crankcase cover. But if you need to change the seals, bearing, or impeller, your right crankcase cover must be removed.
Water Pump Weep Hole. Keep This Opening Clean So You Can See If Your Cooling System Is Compromised.
Service pictures with captions follow the steps below.
Water Pump Removal
Start by draining your coolant and oil.
I recommend removing the water pump cover while it is still mounted because it might put up a fight.
A few taps with a mallet should release the gasket but DO NOT hit it very hard, or in the same spot repeatedly.
Remove the right crankcase cover, and keep the bolts organized because length and placement are critical.
Make sure to remove the shaft side washer from the case, and make sure the exhaust valve governor washer stayed in place.
Start by draining your coolant and oil.I recommend removing the water pump cover while it is still mounted because it might put up a fight.Inside Of The Water PumpMake sure to remove the shaft side washer from the case, and make sure the exhaust valve governor washer stayed in place.Make Sure Exhaust Valve Governor Washer Is Still There
Clean And Inspect
Thoroughly clean the mating surfaces and housing first, for two reasons.
One, cleaning first will save you time and money in the long run if you find damage and need to replace or fix the housing.
Two, you can see if anything was damaged during service.
Hold the impeller shaft with a box wrench, and loosen the impeller with an 8mm socket.
The impeller looks like it is secured with a hex nut, but the impeller is all one piece.
Remove the impeller and copper washer, followed by the impeller shaft.
Remove the coolant side seal with a flat screwdriver and a towel to protect the housing.
The oil side seal is behind the impeller shaft bearing, and the bearing needs to be pulled with a blind bearing puller.
Now, you could, theoretically, punch the bearing out from outside the cover with a drift, but I am NOT TELLING YOU TO DO THAT.
Fortunately, the impeller bearing is not a press fit and can be removed and installed easily.
Remove the oil side seal with a flat head screwdriver and a towel.
Thoroughly clean the seal bores, and the bearing bore.
Remove the impeller and copper washer, followed by the impeller shaft.Remove The impeller ShaftRemove the coolant side seal with a flat screwdriver and a towel to protect the housing.The oil side seal is behind the impeller shaft bearing, and the bearing needs to be pulled with a blind bearing puller.Remove The Bearing With A Blind Bearing PullerRemove the oil side seal with a flat head screwdriver and a towel.
Assembly
Pack your new oil seal with lithium grease and install it with the open side facing up.
Use a socket of matching size, and drive the seal into the bore.
Place your new bearing squarely over the bore, and drive it into place with a socket that matches the OUTSIDE bearing race.
Drive your bearing until it bottoms out.
Pack the coolant side seal with lithium grease, and install it with the open side facing up.
The coolant seal is a different size, so you will need to use a different matching socket to drive the seal into the bore.
Apply grease to the impeller shaft, and carefully install it into the case in a twisting motion.
Install a NEW copper washer, followed by your impeller.
Hold the impeller shaft with a box wrench and torque to 106-inch pounds.
Pack your new oil seal with lithium grease and install it with the open side facing up.Use a socket of matching size, and drive the seal into the bore.Place your new bearing squarely over the bore, and drive it into place with a socket that matches the OUTSIDE bearing race.Drive your bearing until it bottoms out.Pack the coolant side seal with lithium grease, and install it with the open side facing up.The coolant seal is a different size, so you will need to use a different matching socket to drive the seal into the bore.Apply grease to the impeller shaft, and carefully install it into the case in a twisting motion.Install The Impeller Shaft In A Twisting MotionInstall a NEW copper washer, followed by your impeller.Install The ImpellerHold the impeller shaft with a box wrench and torque to 106-inch pounds.
Water Pump Installation
Place your new dowels in the case.
Place your inner gasket, followed by the flow plate, followed by the outer gasket.
Place your water pump cover and press it firmly into place.
Install the case side impeller shaft washer and make sure the exhaust valve governor washer is still in place.
Install a fresh gasket on your crankcase and install the right crankcase cover.
Place your bolts that you definitely kept organized and tighten them hand tight.
The right crankcase bolts do not have a torque specification, but the water pump cover does at 106-inch pounds.
However, I DO NOT recommend torquing these bolts to 106-inch pounds, as I have had several bolts break on me in the past.
I recommend tightening the right crankcase cover bolts no tighter than what a small 1/4in ratchet will achieve.
Place your new dowels in the case.Place your inner gasket, followed by the flow plate, followed by the outer gasket.Install Flow PlateInstall Outer GasketPlace your water pump cover and press it firmly into place.Install the case side impeller shaft washer and make sure the exhaust valve governor washer is still in place.Double Check The Exhaust Valve Governor WasherInstall a fresh gasket on your crankcase and install the right crankcase cover.The right crankcase bolts do not have a torque specification, but the water pump cover does at 106-inch pounds.
If you need any help with your 1997-2001 Honda CR250 water pump service, please let me know in the comments or on social!
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Clutch Specifications For Your 1997-2001 Yamaha YZ125
