This is a detailed walk-through of how to service or rebuild your 1997-2000 Honda CR250 Carburetor.
The 1997/1998 Honda CR250 model years used the Keihin PJ28L, and the 1999/2000 Honda CR250 model years used the Keihin PWK00.
*For the 2001 model year Honda switched to the Mikuni TMX 11a that is not covered in this rebuild.
There are a few carb jetting differences between these carb models, but the most significant difference is the PJ28L had the electronic power jet solenoid option. If your carburetor does not have a power jet solenoid, everything else in this service guide still applies.
Usually, I would include a step-by-step walk-through with pictures for you to follow along with. However, servicing this carburetor is very easy and does not require much technical knowledge. I have provided all of the carburetor specifications in the table below the service notes, along with the original walk-through video.
Once you are done, your carburetor should flow freely so you will need to tune your carburetor back to its normal operating level. Oh hey look, a handy 2-stroke carburetor tuning guide.
- Philips screwdriver
- 6mm socket
- 17mm socket
- Small flat head screwdriver
- Needle nose pliers
- Carburetor cleaner
- Safety glasses
- Soft bristle toothbrush
- Clean rag
1997-2000 Honda CR250 Carburetor Replacement Parts List:
*The parts listed below are the most commonly replaced parts when servicing a carburetor.
Keihin PJ28L Parts:
- Vent and Drain Hoses – 16199-KZ3-B10
- Throttle Spring – 16050-KA5-691
- Throttle Assembly – 16022-KZ3-690
- Float – 16013-HA2-671
- Float Valve – 16011-KA3-741
- Choke Idle Knob – 16046-KS7-004
Keihin PWK00a/b Parts:
- Vent and Drain Hoses – 16199-KZ3-J11
- Throttle Spring – 16050-KZ3-J11
- Throttle Assembly – 16022-KZ3-J11
- Float – 16013-HA2-671
- Float Valve – 16011-KZ3-J11
- Choke Idle Knob – 16046-KZ3-J11
You Can Get Parts And Tools Through Our Partner Links HERE!
Before you begin work on your carburetor make sure your work surface is clean!
Carburetor Rebuild & Service Notes:
- When removing the throttle valve from the carburetor be careful not to damage the needle.
- When loosening the bowl screws make sure the head if clean and you can get a good bite with the screwdriver. You may want to hit the screws with some anti-seize before you try removing them.
- The same applies to the power jet solenoid screws.
- When removing to bowl keep the carburetor straight and upside down to avoid loosing the float jet in case is falls off.
- If the main and slow jet are stuck, soak them with anti-seize. If the jet breaks of in the carb body, It will be very difficult to remove.
- The gasket set containing the bowl, bowl plug, power jet solenoid, and cap O-ring is no longer in production for the ’97/’98 Keihin PF28L. You will need to reuse these O-rings so be very careful removing them.
- Carburetor Cleaning
- Clean the carburetor with carb cleaner, NOT all purpose parts cleaner. All purpose parts cleaners contain chemicals that will damage the rubber O-rings if residue remains.
- Use a SOFT bristle brush when scrubbing the carburetor bore and body to avoid scoring.
- Always wear safety glasses, carburetor cleaner stings like you would not F*****G believe!
- Never use water, it can get into small places in the carburetor body and stay there until you install it and run.
- If debris is stuck in the small parts of the body use compressed air to remove it.
- Remember to turn in the Pilot Air Screw until it is lightly seated in the body. Count the number of turns and write it down for install.
- If the spring does not come out with the pilot air screw, retrieve it with something metal, NOT a tooth pick or anything else that can break off.
- When installing the slow jet, power jet, only tighten them so they are snug in the body
- When installing the main jet do not use a ratchet or wrench, simply take the 6mm socket an extension and tighten the jet until snug.
- If you need to repair the bowl O-ring with RTV, you will need to let it cure before filling the carb with gasoline.
- When installing the carburetor, you may want to remove the air box retaining bolts to give you a little more wiggle room.
If you have any questions or anything to add, please leave them in the comments or on our FaceBook page!
Keep Your ’97-’01 CR250 Running Right!
- Service Specification
- Clutch Replacement
- Carburetor Service
- Engine Top End
- Engine Bottom End
- Front Suspension
- Rear Suspension
- Wheels & Tires
- Kickstarter Inspection
- External Shift Linkage