1997-1999 Honda CR250 – Rear Suspension – Swingarm Service

How To Service The Rear Swingarm On You 1997 – 2001 Honda CR250

1997 - 2001 Honda CR250 - Swingarm Service - FeaturedThe swingarm is a torch and hammer service, so arrange your work area accordingly.

The Tools You Will Need Are:

  • 22mm Socket
  • Breaker Bar
  • 10mm Socket
  • 10mm Wrench
  • Philips Screwdriver
  • Pick
  • Parts Cleaner
  • Soft Bristle Brush
  • Towels
  • Clamp
  • Torch
  • Hammer
  • Socket To Match Bearing
  • Socket Extension
  • Clamp
  • Mallet

The Parts You Will Need Are:

  • New Bearings Set
  • New Pivot Bolt
  • Moly Grease
  • Regular Grease

Support your bike, so the rear wheel is off the ground.

Removal:

Before you start stripping the swingarm, remove the swingarm pivot bolt.1 - Remove Swingarm Pivot Bolt NutYou may need to lay your bike on its side and beat the bolt out with a sledgehammer, and that’s easier to do with the rear wheel still on.2 - Remove Swingarm Pivot Bolt From Frame Once you get the pivot bolt out, replace it just enough to keep the swingarm attached.

Remove the rear wheel, brake caliper, and brake line guides.3 - Remove Rear Wheel 4 - Remove Brake Line Guides Hang the caliper out of the way.5 - Hang Brake Caliper Out Of The Way Remove the chain guide assembly.6 - Remove Chain Guide On the bottom of the swingarm, remove the bolt connecting the swingarm to the shock arm.7 - Remove Shock Link Bolt From Swingarm Pull the swingarm pivot bolt, and remove the swingarm from your bike.8 - Remove Swingarm Pivot Bolt Again9 - Remove Swingarm From Frame Remove the chain slider.10 - Remove Chain Guard Give your swingarm a scrub and a rinse before taking it to the bench.

Related: 1997 – 2001 Honda CR250 Bottom End Service

Disassembly:

Start by marking the left side of the swingarm; electrical tape works pretty well.12 - Label Left Side Of SwingarmIt doesn’t matter what side you start with, but disassemble one side at a time, and make sure to keep each side separated. I will be starting with the left side.

Remove the seals from the inside and outside of the bore.13 - Pull Seals Washers And Bearings From Swingarm Remove the collar from the inside of the swingarm, and the thrust bearing and washers from the outside of the swingarm.

You should have seven pieces per side: Inner seal, collar, thrust washer, thrust bearing, thrust washer, seal, and side collar.14 - You Should Have 7 Pieces Per Side As you can see here, I am missing a thrust washer that is still stuck on the bore.15 - This Washer Was Stuck This swingarm bore is exceptionally contaminated, and all the grit pressing against the washer rubbed a groove in the bore.

After a lot of Pb blaster and picking, I was able to remove it without too much hassle.

With each side disassembled, clean the bore with parts cleaner and a towel or soft bristle brush.16 - Clean Pivot BoreBearing Removal:

These bearings are a press fit, so you will need a press to remove them. I don’t have a press, and I bet you don’t either, so the heat and beat method will work just fine.

You need to remove these bearings from the inside of the swingarm, so you will need a socket extension to reach throughout the opposite bore.

Stabilize your swing with a block of wood, and if you can clamp it down, even better.

Assemble your socket and extension, and rest it on the bearing.

Heat the swingarm bore for about 60 seconds, making sure to move the torch for even heating.17 - Heat Bearing Bore Smoke is normal, and grease residue may catch fire. Remove the torch and firmly tap the bearings.18 - Tap Out BearingIf you have to hammer at them, reheat until you don’t.19 - Like ThisClean:

Clean the swingarm thoroughly.

Make sure every hole is clean and smooth, and sand them if they are not.20 - Clean The Rest Of The Swingarm I had to grind down the washer groove on the left side bearing bore with a Dremel and carbide bit, followed by a sanding bit to smooth it out.21 - As Clean As Possible Finally, clean the pivot shaft mounting holes on the body.

New Parts:

I am using an All Balls rebuild kit for this service. This kit comes with a nylon bushing instead of a thrust washer replacement.

While not OEM, these nylon replacements are a good alternative. Keep your sides separated, and match up your new parts.

Remember, you can get all the tools and parts for this service through our partner links. It won’t cost any more, and it helps us pay the bills!

22 - Match Up New Parts With Old PartsBearing Install:

These bearings are longer than they are wide, which will make installing with a socket and a hammer difficult.

I find using a DIY press, and a mallet works very well.23 - Press Bearing With Allthread And Sockets Depending on what you have to work with, your socket, nut and washer orientation will be different than mine.

As you tighten the nuts, give corrective taps with your mallet as needed to keep the bearing straight.

Once your bearing is about ¾ of the way in, you can remove your press and finish driving the bearing with a socket and a hammer.

When you finish driving, the bearing should be flush with the inner lip of the bore.24 - Drive Bearing Flush To LipAssembly:

Apply a fat layer of moly grease for every piece installed.25 - So Much GreaseI like to start with the outside first, followed by the inside seal, then inside collar.

I know it sounds weird installing the collar before the seal, but seating the seal around the collar is extremely difficult. And since you’re using so much grease, it won’t be a problem.

The outside stack is oriented:

Thrust Washer | Thrust Bearing | Thrust Washer| Seal | Side Collar

With both sides installed, clean off the excess grease and re-attach the chain slider.

Swingarm Installation:

Do not grease your new pivot bolt; the grease will scrape off as it’s installed.

Instead, apply grease to the right side of every bore on the frame and case.

Internal greasing will give the grease a better chance of reaching the other side of the frame.

Align your swingarm, and install the new pivot bolt.26 - Install Swingarm And New Pivot Bolt Install the shock arm bolt, and re-attach the chain guide.27 - Install Shock Arm Bolt 28 - Install Chain Guide Install the rear wheel, brake caliper, and replace the brake line guides.30 - Install Brake Line GuideIf you have any questions please let me know in the comments or on social!

Keep Your ’97-’01 CR250 Running Right!

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